The mould was built using form ply. It is readily available here, is relatively inexpensive and has a smooth surface so the glass doesn’t stick (but plywood will work as well). Pilot holes were drilled as markers for the pins that hold the folding system. The mould was waxed and polished a couple of times. Then mould release was wiped on with a cloth. The pilot holes were blocked with a small bit of filler (resin and Q cells works well).
The glass was cut out using a battery powered cutter. We found this cutter saves many hours and RSI. Because this job is tedious and time consuming I cut glass whenever there is spare time. This might be a job you could delegate to someone who wants to help.
The first layer is chopped strand mat. This gives the finished beam a smooth finish. There are many consecutive layers of triaxial, unidirectional and double bias glass layered, wetted out and compacted.
After a couple of days the beam can be removed after drilling the pilot holes. Because polyester shrinks it is relatively easy to remove. A couple of hardwood wedges and a wooden mallet should do. Epoxy resin doesn’t shrink as much as polyester so you may have to use water or water under pressure to remove the beam.
The main-hull panels were attached to the frame and screwed in place with gyprock (drywall screws). With a plywood boat the panels can be attached using pieces of copper wire.
All the rest of the panels were cut out.Total time 82 hours
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